Crested gecko health: Keeping the crested gecko fit and health. Crested geckos are some of the easiest reptiles to keep as pets, providing that a few quite simple rules are followed.
* Crested geckos need a nutrient and calcium rich balanced diet, in order so they can grow properly and live a long and healthy life.
* Additionally they need a temperature gradient in order for them to thermo-regulate and much better digest the nutrients inside their food.
* Additionally they require a lot of space to move around, and being arboreal tree dwellers additionally they require plenty of climbing branches / perches.
* The most typical health conditions that appear in cresties in captivity are generally a result of among the above not offered, or otherwise not being offered for the correct standard.
Below you will find an insight into the most common of such problems and ways to ensure that they are prevented.
MBD: Metabolic Bone Disease in crested geckos:
Metabolic bone disease in geckos is frequently caused because of a insufficient the correct nutrients being provided within their diets.
Metabolic bone disease is actually a deficiency of calcium, which leads to the gecko utilising the calcium reserves from the own body and skeleton to supplement this lack in calcium.
By using the reserves of calcium in the own body, the gecko’s skeleton is ‘warped’ and misshapen due to the bones becoming very weak and pliable.
This often results in permanent disfigurement of the gecko, especially as bumps, twists and dips in the spine along with a rotating from the hips, creating the tail to flop or jut-out at an unusual angle.
Metabolic bone disease can also produce a weakening of the jaw, leading to the gecko finding eating a lot more difficult.
The jaw is usually too weak for your gecko to close it itself, and also the jaw remains permanently open.
As a result of weakening from the bones, MBD can also at its worst lead to numerous broken bones.
A gecko with MBD finds it more difficult to climb, and frequently lose the ‘stickiness’ on their own feet and tail. When a gecko with MBD falls coming from a height, broken bones are often the result.
Metabolic bone disease in the latter stages is really a horrific sight to witness, and also the gecko is twisted and contorted away from recognition.
In younger and crested gecko breeding females it is extra vital that you supplement feeding properly. Hatchlings put a lot of calcium into bone growth, and breeding females use an extraordinary quantity of calcium when producing eggs.
Providing a healthy, nutrient rich and balanced gecko diet is easily the most foolproof way to help prevent your crested gecko developing MBD.
Preventing gecko Metabolic Bone Disease in crested geckos:
* Gut load live food just before feeding causing them to be more nutritious
* Dust live food with nutrient powders, Calcium, and/or Calcium D3
* Give a good meal replacement gecko diet powder
* UVB light can also assist to prevent MBD, because it helps the gecko to soak up and utilise the calcium in its diet more effectively
* Too much phosphorous in a diet can prevent calcium being absorbed. Avoid foods rich in phosphorus content.
* Floppy tail syndrome: FTS in crested geckos
Floppy tail syndrome in geckos happens when the gecko’s tail literally flops inside an abnormal direction. It is most noticeable once the gecko is laying upside-down, flat up against the side of the enclosure, in which point the tail usually flops down over its head or at a jaunty angle.
A healthy gecko tail would rest up against the glass in its natural position.
It really is believed that Floppy tail syndrome results mainly from a captive environment as cresties within the wild would rarely come across a surface as flat, smooth and vertical being an enclosure wall.
It is thought that this flat surface is exactly what can bring about FTS in crested geckos, as laying on this vertical surface for prolonged periods of time leads to the tail ‘flopping’ over because of gravity, and weakens the muscles on the tails base.
At its worst, floppy tail syndrome is known to be able to twist the pelvis in the gecko, predominantly because of the excessive weight put on the pelvic area if the tail flops aside.
For this reason it is really not advised to breed a female crested gecko with FTS, as she could well encounter problems attempting to pass the eggs.
Although no concrete evidence can be obtained, it can be assumed that providing plenty of climbing and hiding places for the gecko might help to stop them from sleeping on the enclosure walls.
Nonetheless it is still not fully understood whether this is the actual underlying reason behind FTS. Many believe it can be an inherited deformity, and therefore it can be passed from parents with their young although at the minute this seems unlikely.
Heat Stress in Crested Geckos
Heat Stress in crested geckos is the main killer of these usually very hardy and easy to look after reptiles.
Crested geckos will start to show stress if kept at temperatures above 28C for prolonged amounts of time.
It is easier to keep your crested gecko enclosure at temperatures nearer to around 25C rather than risk over exposure to higher temperatures.
With that being said you can allow parts of your enclosure to arrive at 28C – as an example directly beneath the basking bulb – so long as your pet gecko can choose to move into a cooler area if they wish.
Higher temperatures only be a deadly problem as soon as your gecko needs to endure them constantly or for long time periods without the solution to cool down.
Research has shown that crested gecko in contact with temperatures of 30C without having the ability to cool down, can and can very likely die inside an hour.
Young/small geckos are even prone to heat stress so it is recommended to always allow them the choice to move towards the cooler end with their temperature range.
Cleaning your crested gecko vivarium:
Keeping your gecko enclosure clean will help you to prevent illnesses connected with bad hygiene, bacteria and moulds.
The crested gecko tank / enclosure will periodically need to have a thorough clean when it becomes dirty.
I discover it easiest to recognize-clean the enclosures every day or two, removing uneaten food and excrement and wiping the sides of the enclosure with damp paper towel.
There are several reptile-safe disinfectants available now and these can be diluted with water to ensure a safe environment for your gecko after cleaning and you also can use newspaper to clean up up smears and streaks on glass enclosures.
It is actually advised to perform a thorough complete clean of the enclosure and every one of its contents once in a while. I have a tendency to perform a big clean out every month to assist stop any unwanted bacteria building up.
With regular cleaning and upkeep your crested gecko enclosure should not create an unwanted odour or create mould/bacteria.
Selecting a healthy crested gecko:
A healthy gecko:
• May have clean and clear nose and eyes. Eyes will likely be bright and shiny and will not be sunken into the head.
• Will not have layers of retained shed skin stuck at its extremities. Healthy geckos shed in a few hours and shed must not remain considerably longer than this.
• Will never be dehydrated: Dehydrated geckos will have loose skin, sunken eyes and will also be somewhat lethargic. Dehydration often leads to the gecko looking thin in comparison to a well hydrated gecko.
• Will likely be alert when handled, a unhealthy animal will likely be limp qrtdbr possibly shaky inside your hand and will show virtually no interest or reaction in being handled
• Needs to have a plump, straight tail that can ‘grasp’ onto objects. A great test of the is that if the gecko wraps its tail around your finger.
• Should have almost Velcro like feet. If the gecko is neglecting to stick/climb – this can become a sign of MBD or retained shed.
Check out our website focused on the care and husbandry of crested geckos and leopard geckos.